FASHTALKS WITH KAREN KARCH

When did you know you wanted to become a designer?

When I was in high school, even though I sold jewelry that I made through a local fashion boutique, never in my wildest dreams did I realize that I could become a jewelry designer. That epiphany occurred during my final semester at UT Austin. I discovered a course named “metals” and asked if I could learn to make jewelry. If only I had discovered it earlier, my first degree would not have been in communications.  I continued exploring more jewelry-making courses while applying to Parsons School of Design in New York where I received my 2^nd degree.

What is your earliest design memory for your brand?

My first designs were inspired by the energy of New York City. They immediately caught the attention of the press and were categorized as part of a movement they had coined “Dangerous Jewelry”. My aim was to elevate rusty and broken objects found in the streets by casting them in silver and creating unique configurations.  My hero piece was a leather biker jacket embellished with pins created from broken reflectors which ended up being worn by an MTV by a VJ.

“Jewelry carries meaning and when you find a piece that speaks to you, you will love it your whole lifetime.”

What is your favorite part about designing?

With our readymade pieces, it is particularly exciting when the right person connects to the right piece.  We love when they express just how much the piece means to them. And those connections are deepened even more when we have the honor to create bespoke, even more personal pieces. 

How would you describe your personal style?

My style recipe is a pinch of high fashion funneled through a 90’s filter for an elevated grunge effect. As with my jewelry, it is about mixing it up in unexpected ways to keep it real. I’m known for layering and stacking necklaces, rings, bracelets, and earrings in unexpected combinations, always mixing metals – silver, with yellow and rose gold and platinum.  Gems run the gamut from turquoise to precious gems and diamonds.

What made you want to design jewelry?

Jewelry is the most personal style expression, above fashion which is my 2^nd love. Jewelry carries meaning and when you find a piece that speaks to you, you will love it your whole lifetime. Then, you can pass it down for generations.   

“I love working with the idea of opposites, the push-pull of contradictory elements such as vibrant and moody, rough-hewn, and elegant, masculine, and feminine creating pieces with glamor and grit.“

What was your previous work experience before launching your brand?

I worked as a waitress until my business took off.  I considered working for a designer I admired, but in the end was obsessed with having my own business and wanted all my creative energy to go there.

What sets your brand apart from the rest?

We create beauty with attitude, jewelry that speaks to individualists and transcends to appeal even to those who say they are not “jewelry people”. The jewelry retains a quality of hand with textures. 

What do you envision for the future of your brand?

Since we have transitioned from a brick-and-mortar brand to online, we are working on a better online presentation of our pieces. 

Do you have a favorite piece that you have designed? 

Hard to choose, but I’d have to say the Floating Star Ring.

Where do you find inspiration?

My ongoing overall inspiration emerged from not wanting to be boxed in. I love working with the idea of opposites, the push-pull of contradictory elements such as vibrant and moody, rough-hewn, and elegant, masculine, and feminine creating pieces with glamor and grit. 

What were some hurdles you had to overcome in your business?

I have been in business over 30 years.  There are always factors you cannot control that will interrupt business.  You must learn to stay calm and stay focused. I had to learn this early on in my business when I lived in Los Angeles during the riots.  I left New York, where I opened a retail shop downtown and survived 9-11 and the financial crisis. Thanks to Covid, I pivoted to an online only business model and am glad I did because there is uncertainty and turbulence ahead.

What is the one piece of advice you would give to a new designer?

Love what you do and never give up. It must be an obsession. 

How important is social media to your brand?

Instagram is a very important platform where people can discover and stay up to date with our designs.  Staying authentic makes people want to connect, so I create all the posts myself. 

How has the fashion industry changed since you first started out?

When I started, there was no internet – nobody had a personal computer or cell phone.  There were no websites or social media.  Everything is so accessible now in an immediate way. 

What can consumers expect to see next from your brand?

I have created collections inspired by my travels, but after all New York and I have been through together over the years, I decided to create a collection that celebrates New York, all its glamour and all its grit.